Pre-Trip Vehicle Inspection

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Revision as of 18:13, 27 February 2026 by Adventureadmin (talk | contribs) (Created page with "== Pre-Departure Vehicle Inspection Checklist == This inspection should be performed at least two weeks before departure. This "buffer time" allows you to order specific parts or visit a specialist if you discover a major issue during your walkthrough. --- === 1. The Vital Fluids and Filtration === Don't just check the levels; check the condition of the fluids. * '''Engine Oil:''' Check level and color. If it’s black and gritty (diesel) or milky (potential head gask...")
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Pre-Departure Vehicle Inspection Checklist

This inspection should be performed at least two weeks before departure. This "buffer time" allows you to order specific parts or visit a specialist if you discover a major issue during your walkthrough.

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1. The Vital Fluids and Filtration

Don't just check the levels; check the condition of the fluids.

  • Engine Oil: Check level and color. If it’s black and gritty (diesel) or milky (potential head gasket leak), change it.
  • Cooling System: With the engine cold, squeeze the radiator hoses. If they feel "crunchy" or excessively soft/sticky, they are failing internally. Look for "crusty" colorful deposits (pink, green, or blue) around hose joins—this is a sign of a slow "weoping" leak.
  • Fuel Filters: If you haven't changed your fuel filter in the last 10,000km, do it now. If your vehicle has a water separator, drain it into a glass jar to check for contaminants.
  • Air Filter: Remove the filter and hold it up to the sun. If you can't see light through the pleats, it’s restricted. Check the intake ducting for any signs of dusting (fine silt) which indicates a leak in the intake.


2. Steering, Suspension, and Drivetrain

This requires getting under the vehicle with a pry bar and a good light.

  • Shock Absorbers: Look for "misting" (light oil coating) or "leaking" (dripping oil). A misting shock is starting to fail; a leaking shock is already dead.
  • Bushings: Use a pry bar to check for movement in control arms and leaf spring shackles. Any visible cracking in the rubber means the bushing is nearing the end of its life.
  • U-Joints: Grab the driveshaft and try to shake it. There should be zero play in the U-joints. If it clicks or moves, replace the joint immediately.
  • Wheel Bearings: Jack up each wheel and grab the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock. Try to rock it. Any "play" or a faint metallic clicking suggests the wheel bearings need tightening or replacement.


3. Tires and Wheels

Your tires are your only contact with the terrain; treat them as your most critical safety item.

  • Sidewall Inspection: Run your hand along the inner and outer sidewalls. Feel for bulges (internal structure failure) or deep nicks.
  • Tread Depth: Check for uneven wear. If the inside edge is wearing faster than the outside, your alignment is out, which will cause excessive heat and potential blowouts on long highway stretches.
  • Torque Check: Use a torque wrench to ensure every lug nut is tightened to factory specifications. This is when you’ll likely discover if a wheel stud is already stretched or stripped.
  • Spare Tire: Lower your spare tire! Ensure the winch mechanism isn't rusted shut and check that the spare is actually holding air.

4. Electrical and Battery Health

  • Terminals: Wiggle the battery terminals. If they move, they aren't tight enough. Clean off any white oxidation with a wire brush and baking soda.
  • Alternator Belt: Check the "V" or "Serpentine" belt for glazing (shiny spots) or small cracks. If the belt has more than 3 cracks per inch, it is a ticking time bomb.
  • Load Test: If your battery is more than 3 years old, take it to an auto shop for a "Load Test." A battery can show 12.6 volts but still fail under the heavy load of a cold start or running a fridge.


5. Braking System

  • Pads and Rotors: Peer through the calipers to check pad thickness. If you have less than 5mm of friction material left, replace them—overlanding loads and mountain descents will eat through the remainder quickly.
  • Flexible Lines: Have a partner press the brake pedal hard while you watch the rubber brake lines. If they "balloon" or swell under pressure, they are weak and prone to bursting.
  • Handbrake: Ensure the handbrake holds the vehicle on a steep incline. A failing handbrake is a major liability when trying to perform a "stall recovery" on a steep track.

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Inspection Summary Checklist

Component Action Red Flag
Coolant Hoses Squeeze & Inspect Crunchy feel or colorful crusts
Driveshaft Shake test Any clunking or visible movement
Air Filter Light test Blocked light or silt in intake
Battery Wiggle test Loose terminals or "white fuzz"
Brake Fluid Level & Color check Dark/black fluid (indicates moisture)
Tires Visual & Pressure Bulges in sidewall or uneven wear